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洛陽(yáng)篇二, Luoyang -2, 2026 0115

勞倫斯

<p class="ql-block">老君山,位于洛陽(yáng)西南大約200公里處,為伏牛山主峰,原名景室山,取其八百里伏牛山美景集于一室之意。唐代因?yàn)橄鄠骼献釉酱藲w隱修煉而易名為老君山。唐朝尊老子為“太上玄元皇帝”,重修鐵頂老君廟,敕封老君山為道教圣地。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Laojun Mountain, standing about 200 kilometers southwest of Luoyang as the main peak of the Funiu range, was originally named 'Jingshi Shan', or 'Gathering Chamber Mountain’. This poetic name reflects the idea that it gathers the scenic beauty of the vast, 400-kilometer Funiu Mountains into one magnificent 'chamber'. During the Tang Dynasty, it was renamed Mount Laojun because it was believed that Laozi (the founder of Taoism) had once retreated here for cultivation. The Tang emperors honoured Laozi as the "Supreme Mysterious and Primordial Emperor" (Taishang Xuanyuan Huangdi), rebuilt the Iron-Roof Laojun Temple, and officially designated Mount Laojun as a sacred site of Taoism.</p> <p class="ql-block">參加去老君山的一日游團(tuán)通常要早上6點(diǎn)出發(fā),晚上6點(diǎn)返回,我不太喜歡這種早出晚歸、耗時(shí)太長(zhǎng)的游玩方式。網(wǎng)約車司機(jī)建議盡量早點(diǎn)出發(fā),但我最后定了9點(diǎn)出發(fā)。我們的車11點(diǎn)多到達(dá)老君山。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">今天天氣晴朗,游客也不多,我便跟著其他人一起進(jìn)山了。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The usual one-day tour groups to Mount Laojun depart at 6 a.m. and return at 6 p.m., but I'm not too fond of this kind of early start and late return—it feels like too long a day. The ride-hailing driver suggested setting off as early as possible, but I ended up booking a departure at 9 a.m. We arrived at Mount Laojun a little past 11 a.m. </p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The weather was clear today with few tourists, so I followed the others and headed up the mountain.</p> <p class="ql-block">上山的路很長(zhǎng),坡度也特別陡,必須坐索道上山,而且還得換乘兩級(jí)索道才能到達(dá)山頂。從景區(qū)大門到擺渡車站就有一段距離,等坐上擺渡車到云景索道站,前后已經(jīng)花了半小時(shí)。索道站里早就排起了長(zhǎng)隊(duì),一等又是半個(gè)多小時(shí)——還沒(méi)正式開(kāi)始上山,一個(gè)多小時(shí)就過(guò)去了。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The path up the mountain was long and particularly steep. Taking the cable car was a must, and you even needed to take two consecutive cable cars to reach the summit. Just getting from the entrance of the scenic area to the shuttle bus stop was a bit of a walk. By the time we took the shuttle to the Yunjing Cable Car Station, half an hour had already passed. There was already a long queue at the cable car station, and we had to wait for over half an hour, —so before we even started the actual ascent, over an hour had gone by.</p> <p class="ql-block">老君山景區(qū)有兩條一級(jí)索道,分別是云景索道和中靈索道,上山后還要換乘二級(jí)索道,峰林索道,才能到達(dá)山頂。這里每天平均有兩萬(wàn)五千人上山,旅游旺季更是在三萬(wàn)人以上。三個(gè)索道站經(jīng)常要排隊(duì)等上兩三個(gè)小時(shí)。從進(jìn)景區(qū)開(kāi)始,加上這些等候的時(shí)間,完全打亂了我的計(jì)劃。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The Mount Laojun scenic area has two first-stage cable cars: the Yunjing Cableway and the Zhongling Cableway. After going up the mountain, you still need to transfer to the second-stage cable car—the Fenglin Cableway—to actually reach the summit. On average, 25,000 people visit the mountain every day, and during peak tourist seasons, that number exceeds 30,000. The three cable car stations often have queues lasting two to three hours. From the moment I entered the scenic area, all that waiting time completely disrupted my plans.</p> <p class="ql-block">云景索道到老君山山腰的中天門下來(lái)。中天門有上下兩聯(lián), “老君山山君老山老君不老”,“玄門道道門玄道玄門亦玄”。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The Yunjing Cableway ascends to the Mid-Heaven Gate halfway up Mount Laojun. At the Mid-Heaven Gate, there is a couplet in two lines: "Laojun Mountain, the mountain lord is old, the mountain is old, but the lord is not old," and "The Mysterious Gate, the gate of Tao is mysterious, the Tao is mysterious, and the gate is also mysterious."</p> <p class="ql-block">沿中天門繼續(xù)向上,便到了救苦殿。這里是連接中天門與山頂區(qū)域的重要節(jié)點(diǎn),海拔1866米。登上救苦殿,必須要爬一段被稱為“天梯”的518級(jí)臺(tái)階。大家爬得氣喘吁吁,紛紛在臺(tái)階兩側(cè)休息。我也跟著年輕人一起,鼓起勇氣,一步步向上攀登。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Continuing upward from the Mid-Heaven Gate, you will arrive at the Salvation Pavilion. This spot, situated at an altitude of 1,866 meters, serves as a crucial link between the Mid-Heaven Gate and the summit area. To reach the Salvation Pavilion, one must climb a section known as the "Heavenly Stairs," consisting of 518 steps. Everyone was out of breath from the climb, pausing to rest on either side of the steps. Drawing courage from the young people around me, I also pressed on, ascending step by step.</p> <p class="ql-block">救苦殿主祀太乙救苦天尊。他是道教尊神,位居“九天尊”之首,被視為救度苦難、接引升仙的慈悲之神。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">救苦殿外的空間不大,擠滿了在此休息的游客。場(chǎng)地狹小,找不到一個(gè)合適的角度拍攝大殿外景,只好站在階梯口,拍下正在上山的游客,算是作為我到過(guò)救苦殿的一個(gè)旁證吧。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">This hall enshrines the Taiyi Savior, the foremost divine figure among Taoism's "Nine Celestial Worthies"—a merciful lord believed to relieve suffering and shepherd souls toward immortality.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Outside, every inch of ground was packed with resting travellers. Unable to find a proper angle to capture the hall's exterior, I turned my camera from the entrance toward the stream of hikers ascending the trail—a modest keepsake to mark that I was here.</p> <p class="ql-block">從救苦殿到伏牛山主峰,垂直落差有400多米,蜿蜒的步行上山道路就更長(zhǎng)了。時(shí)間已經(jīng)過(guò)下午兩點(diǎn),我估算了一下,即使現(xiàn)在返回中天門,換乘峰林索道上山,往返起碼也要三個(gè)小時(shí),而且還不清楚下了索道后還要走多久才能到山頂。只好放棄登頂?shù)拇蛩?,坐索道下山,打道回府?lt;/p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">到了老君山,卻只上到半山腰,上面主要的景點(diǎn)一個(gè)都沒(méi)看到,實(shí)在遺憾!像我這樣的漫游,來(lái)老君山至少得提前安排出兩三天時(shí)間才夠。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">From the Salvation Pavilion to the main peak of the Funiu Mountains, the vertical drop is over 400 meters, and the winding path up the mountain is even longer. It was already past 2:00 PM, and I estimated that even if I returned to the Mid-Heaven Gate and took the Fenglin Cableway up, the round trip would take at least three hours—and that's without knowing how much further I'd have to walk from the cable car station to the summit. So I had no choice but to give up on reaching the top and took the cableway back down, heading home.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">I made it to Mount Laojun, but only got as far as the mountainside—missing all the main attractions above. What a pity! For a leisurely trip like mine, I should have set aside at least two or three days for Mount Laojun.</p> 回到洛陽(yáng),我在應(yīng)天門下了車。華燈初上,宮城一帶顯露出盛唐的氣象。<br><br>Returning to Luoyang, I got off at Yingtianmen (the Gate of Responding to Heaven). As the evening lights began to glow, the palace area revealed the grandeur of the High Tang era.<br> 應(yīng)天門是中國(guó)古代規(guī)格最高的城門,被譽(yù)為“隋唐第一門”,也有“天下第一門”的美稱。<br><br>The Yingtianmen is the most prestigious city gate in ancient China, renowned as the "No. 1 Gate of the Sui and Tang Dynasties" and also honored with the title of the "No. 1 Gate Under Heaven."<br> 應(yīng)天門是紫微城的正南門,俗稱五鳳樓。它是隋唐時(shí)期國(guó)家和皇權(quán)的象征,也是朝廷舉行登基、改元、大赦、宴會(huì)等外朝大典的重要場(chǎng)所。歷史上,唐高宗曾在此詔釋百濟(jì)國(guó)王扶余義慈,武則天亦在此登基稱帝。<div><br></div><div>The Yingtianmen (Gate of Responding to Heaven) served as the southern entrance to the Ziwei Palace (Palace of Purple Microcosm) and was commonly known as the Five-Phoenix Tower. It stood as a symbol of the state and imperial authority during the Sui and Tang dynasties, and was the significant venue where the imperial court held grand ceremonies such as enthronements, the proclamation of a new reign title, general amnesties, and state banquets. Historically, it was here that Emperor Gaozong of Tang issued the edict to release King Uija of Baekje, and it was also where Wu Zetian ascended the throne and proclaimed herself Emperor.</div> 洛陽(yáng)城的城宮作為隋、唐、武周、後梁、後唐、後晉等朝代的政治中心與朝廷正宮,它是中國(guó)歷史上使用朝代最多、規(guī)模巨大的皇宮之一。<br><br>The Imperial Palace of Luoyang City served as the political centre and the main imperial palace for dynasties including the Sui, Tang, Wu Zhou, Later Liang, Later Tang, and Later Jin. It stands as one of the largest and most frequently used imperial palaces in Chinese history, having been the seat of power for the greatest number of dynasties.<br> 從應(yīng)天門城樓上俯瞰仔徽城宮。<br><br>Overlooking the Ziwei Palace from the Yingtianmen city tower.<br> 明堂始建於公元688年春,是紫微城的大朝正殿,或號(hào)萬(wàn)象神宮。是武則天舉行重大禮儀活動(dòng)、頒布政令和春秋兩季祭祀活動(dòng)的重要場(chǎng)所。 The Bright Hall (Mingtang), first constructed in the spring of 688 AD, served as the main ceremonial hall of the Ziwei Palace. Also known as the "Hall of Myriad Forms" (Wanxiang Shengong), it was the significant venue where Wu Zetian conducted grand ceremonial activities, issued imperial decrees, and performed sacrificial rites during the spring and autumn seasons. 來(lái)到明堂宮殿的少女們,都想感受一下當(dāng)年武則天的威儀。<br><br>The young women visiting the Bright Hall all wish to experience the grandeur and authority of Wu Zetian from centuries past.<br> 洛陽(yáng)城的天堂,是武則天的禮佛堂,隋唐洛陽(yáng)城“七天建筑”之一。其用意,就是為了彰顯統(tǒng)治者唯我獨(dú)尊、號(hào)令四海、居高臨下、莫敢不從的王者氣概。<br><br>The Paradise Hall (Tiantang) in Luoyang was Wu Zetian's personal Buddhist shrine and one of the "Seven Heaven-Connected Structures" of the Sui-Tang Luoyang city. Its purpose was to project the ruler's supreme authority—a sovereign's aura of unparalleled majesty, commanding the realm from on high, with none daring to defy.<br> 一整天沉浸在這個(gè)千年古都的歷史中,回到了酒店,也回到了現(xiàn)實(shí)。吃上一碗熱熱的號(hào)稱是三十年老店的牛肉面,正好慰勞自己。<br><br>After immersing myself in the millennia-old history of this ancient capital all day, returning to the hotel felt like returning to reality. A warm bowl of beef noodles from a shop claiming to be a 'thirty-year institution' was just the reward I needed.<br> 中國(guó)泛稱「僧院」為「寺」,白馬寺是佛教傳入中國(guó)後興建的第一座寺院。創(chuàng)建於東漢永平十一年(公元68年)。白馬寺也因此被認(rèn)為是中國(guó)佛教的發(fā)源地,有中國(guó)佛教的「祖庭」和「釋源」之稱。<div><br></div><div>In China, Buddhist monasteries are commonly referred to as "temples." The White Horse Temple is the first temple built in China after the introduction of Buddhism. It was founded in the 11th year of the Yongping era of the Eastern Han Dynasty (AD 68). As a result, the White Horse Temple is regarded as the cradle of Chinese Buddhism and is honoured as the "Founder's Temple" and the "Source of Buddhism" in China.</div> 白馬寺把佛教傳到了朝鮮、日本和東南亞,使佛教在亞洲得到普及,后來(lái)又進(jìn)入歐美,成為世界各地佛教信徒參拜的圣地。因此20世紀(jì)末以來(lái),日本捐資重修白馬寺鐘樓并立空海雕像;泰國(guó)、印度、緬甸政府相繼出資于白馬寺建造佛殿,使之成為全世界唯一擁有中、印、緬、泰四國(guó)風(fēng)格佛殿的國(guó)際化寺院。 The White Horse Temple served as the conduit through which Buddhism spread to Korea, Japan, and Southeast Asia, facilitating its proliferation across Asia. It later extended its reach to Europe and the Americas, becoming a sacred pilgrimage site for Buddhist devotees worldwide. Consequently, since the late 20th century, Japan has donated funds to restore the temple's bell tower and erected a statue of Kūkai there. Subsequently, the governments of Thailand, India, and Myanmar have successively financed the construction of Buddhist halls within the temple grounds. This has made the White Horse Temple a unique, international monastery that features Buddhist architectural styles from China, India, Myanmar, and Thailand—the only one of its kind in the world. 洛邑古城,位于洛陽(yáng)市的老城區(qū),已經(jīng)成了集游、玩、吃、住、購(gòu)于一體的綜合性人文旅游觀光區(qū)。<br><br>Luo Yi Ancient City, situated in the old town district of Luoyang, is a comprehensive cultural tourism zone integrating sightseeing, entertainment, dining, accommodation, and shopping.<br> <p class="ql-block">洛陽(yáng)三日,所到之處雖是網(wǎng)上熱門的打卡之地,所見(jiàn)所感,也不過(guò)是這座千年帝都的驚鴻一瞥。身為十三朝故地、河洛文明之根,洛陽(yáng)的底蘊(yùn),又豈是數(shù)三日所能窺見(jiàn)?惟愿來(lái)日,能再赴洛陽(yáng),靜心聆聽(tīng)那千年的回響。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">My three days in Luoyang, though spent at places popular on the internet, offered nothing more than a fleeting glimpse of this millennia-old capital. As the ancient seat of thirteen dynasties and the cradle of Heluo civilization, how could Luoyang's profound heritage ever be fully appreciated in a short three days visit? I sincerely hope that in the future, I will have the opportunity to return to Luoyang and quietly listen to the echoes of its thousand-year history.</p>
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