一場(chǎng)奇妙的心靈之旅……………… 多彩甘南之行

安心

<p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      22日，夏至已到，遠(yuǎn)離酷暑，一路向西，來一場(chǎng)說走就走的旅行。一路上丘陵溝壑，大漠荒原，深深淺淺的云彩懸在半空，觸手可及，蒼涼，神圣。車上是六零后、七零后、八零后、九零后一個(gè)完美的組合。那英磁性的嗓音充滿了車廂，混和了各種吃食的味道，生活的甜甜膩膩的味道。</span></h3> <h3><span class="s1" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      顛簸了</span><span class="s2" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">15</span><span class="s1" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">個(gè)小時(shí)到達(dá)第一站蘭州。品嘗當(dāng)?shù)孛朗?，第一次吃到?dāng)?shù)貍鹘y(tǒng)的牛奶雞蛋醪糟。</span><br></h3> <p class="p1" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">      23</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">日，早上六點(diǎn)跑步去了黃河大橋，重游了中山大橋和蘭州港碼頭、黃河母親雕像。覓到老字號(hào)馬有步牛肉面，一清二白三紅四綠名不虛傳，味道真心不錯(cuò)。</span></h3><p class="p1" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><br></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">       </span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 22.66666603088379px;">九點(diǎn)半往拉卜楞方向出發(fā)，中午在夏河縣城品嘗了牛雜湯、甜麥子和釀皮子。兩點(diǎn)半左右到達(dá)第二站拉卜楞寺，狠狠的睡了一覺，虔誠地轉(zhuǎn)了經(jīng)筒，登了白塔。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961);"><font face=".PingFang SC">      </font><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">拉卜楞寺位于夏河縣拉卜楞鎮(zhèn)西頭，坐落在大夏河北岸，坐北向南，西北山似大象橫臥，東南山松林蒼翠，寺前開闊平坦，大夏河自西向東北蜿蜒而流，形如右旋海螺，山清水秀，</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">風(fēng)光宜人。</span></span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-size: 17pt;">距今有三百多年的歷史，被世界譽(yù)為“世界藏學(xué)府”，有藏傳佛教北大清華的美譽(yù)。</span><br></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">    晚上客棧老板推薦了剛開業(yè)的四川火鍋，味道地道，老板熱情，小郎酒醇厚。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">      24</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">號(hào)，</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">7</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">點(diǎn)半才溜達(dá)出去。拉卜愣寺佛殿眾多，僧舍無數(shù)，</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">規(guī)模宏大，擁有完整的寺廟建筑群，供佛著無數(shù)的巨大佛像和精美雕塑以及壁畫、法器等藏傳佛教的寶貝。這里還是</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">全世界獨(dú)一無二的轉(zhuǎn)經(jīng)長(zhǎng)廊，共計(jì)</span><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">2000</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">多個(gè)轉(zhuǎn)經(jīng)筒，每個(gè)轉(zhuǎn)經(jīng)筒觸摸一次，至少一個(gè)小時(shí)才可以轉(zhuǎn)完一圈。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      25日，奔赴下一站，阿壩，路徑桑科草原，瑪曲縣城。桑科草原碧綠如毯，各色花卉爭(zhēng)奇斗艷，第一次認(rèn)識(shí)了狼毒花，絢麗多彩，成團(tuán)成簇。藍(lán)天白云下牛羊成群，就連豬兒都是在草原散養(yǎng)著，一派自然的田園風(fēng)光讓人沉醉。這里平均海拔</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">3000</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">，最高處有</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">3600</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">多米。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      路上遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)看到寧瑪寺，氣勢(shì)恢宏，這里???</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 22.66666603088379px;">當(dāng)前世界上最大的轉(zhuǎn)經(jīng)筒，</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">以內(nèi)藏大藏經(jīng)</span><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">1080</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">部</span><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">11</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">萬冊(cè)而聞名。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      26日清晨，和綠籮姐在阿壩縣城閑逛，終于在一家抄手坊里喝到了久違的米粥。駛出縣城時(shí)遇到寺院迎接活佛，長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)地隊(duì)伍很是壯觀。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      誤打誤撞，走進(jìn)神座村，一下子被這個(gè)原始小村迷住了。</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;"><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-size: 17pt;">這座僅有</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">57</span><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-size: 17pt;">戶人家的藏族村落，背靠高山草場(chǎng)，與綿延不絕的原始森林隔河相望。</span></span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">民居的外形猶若一座座別致的土著小洋房。走在村內(nèi)，常見滿頭白發(fā)的老人坐在院外，手上旋轉(zhuǎn)著轉(zhuǎn)經(jīng)桶，口中念念有詞。</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">    </span></h3><h3><span style="white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">   </span></h3> <h3><span style="white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">   我們住在了和平旅社，客棧老板是個(gè)很憨厚的藏民，他很熱情的講解村子里的故事。村子里400多口人，80歲以上近30個(gè)，其中有2個(gè)百歲老人，先后走出大學(xué)生60余人</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">。這里的房子全是土木結(jié)構(gòu)，墻的厚度達(dá)</span><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">1</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">米</span><span class="s2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">4</span><span class="s1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); white-space: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">，冬暖夏涼。</span></h3> <h3>　　村子里只有一家餐廳會(huì)做漢餐，大家齊手采購，城哥自告奮勇為我們做的晚餐，色香味具佳。老板為我們做了當(dāng)?shù)氐年笈Ｈ猓兜栗r美但真心咬不動(dòng)??</h3> <h3>　　面對(duì)早餐的青稞糍粑和奶渣奶茶，我不知所措，看著客棧老板親自示范然后很滿意吃下去，不禁感嘆飲食文化的差異，我是吃不慣的，不過老板娘做的油條蠻好吃。</h3> <h3><span class="s1" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      這里人們的淳樸善良、與世無爭(zhēng)、怡然自得深深吸引著我們，在這里逗留了兩日。去了村子后面的空中花園，爬上了對(duì)面的原始森林。這里的</span><span style="white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">天氣瞬息萬變，一會(huì)晴空萬里，一會(huì)傾盆大雨。</span><br></h3> <h3>　　在藏區(qū)隨時(shí)可見煨桑臺(tái)，佛經(jīng)上說，神靈是“食味”的，會(huì)隨著柏樹枝和香葉熏燃的香味愉快地前來赴宴，降福給供奉她的子民。</h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      27號(hào)，去往扎尕那，牦牛大道上，牛羊肆無忌憚的在車前晃晃悠悠，路邊一條不知名的小河緩緩流淌，有兩個(gè)喇嘛在路邊不停的撿拾著小青蛙，然后扔到對(duì)面草叢中，一切都是那么愜意。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      路徑若爾蓋草原，過了紅星鎮(zhèn)就開始泥濘的小路，小雨淅淅瀝瀝時(shí)斷時(shí)續(xù)，路兩邊是高高低低的山巒，一條小河蜿蜒在路的一側(cè)，在峽谷里晃蕩了</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">3</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">個(gè)半小時(shí)，胃里早已翻江倒海。終于到達(dá)一片寬闊之地，天地像是被拉開序幕一樣，路的盡頭別有洞天，峻俏的山峰懷抱著一個(gè)別致的藏族村落，云霧繚繞，宛如仙境，傳說中的扎尕娜躍然于眼前。城哥早早預(yù)定了當(dāng)?shù)刈詈玫囊患铱蜅?，位于村子的最高處，觀景位置極佳。趁著夜色尚淺，來不及放下行李就去觀賞景色了。晚上品嘗了原汁原味的藏族全家?；疱??？雌饋砥废嘁话悖兜肋€不錯(cuò)。家中孩子們分別在群里曬著邢臺(tái)、廣州、佳木斯的天氣，家中是</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">37</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">度高溫，而我們卻在這里穿著羽絨服吃火鍋。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">      28</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">號(hào)，外面有霧，看不到日出，美美的睡到自然醒，等我們出去的時(shí)候，外面已經(jīng)多了一群來自湖南、四川等地的游客。朋友說起，前兩年來這里還是一片處女地，吃住都是在藏民家里，現(xiàn)在村子里點(diǎn)綴著形形色色的旅舍，商業(yè)味道越來越濃。雨后清晨的扎尕娜宛如藏族少女蒙著一層輕紗，遠(yuǎn)處的山尖忽隱忽現(xiàn)，海市蜃樓一般，果然不愧為神仙居所。</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      扎尕娜與外界的聯(lián)系只有來時(shí)那一條狹長(zhǎng)的山路，這方天地間的凈土正漸漸被人們揭開神秘的面紗。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      朗木寺位于紅星鎮(zhèn)北</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">5</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">公里，四川的格爾底寺，和甘肅的賽赤寺隔溪相望，各自用不同的方式傳達(dá)著對(duì)信仰的執(zhí)著。我們?nèi)チ讼钡馁惓嗨?，寺院?lt;/span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">5</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">座金碧輝煌的大殿，寺后通往天葬臺(tái)。</span></h3> <p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">      返回蘭州的途中，欣賞著兩邊連綿不絕的草原風(fēng)光，開始思念家鄉(xiāng)的親人朋友，短短一周的行程，往返近</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">5000</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">公里，最高海拔</span><span class="s2" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">3700</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">米，溫度9度到27度，領(lǐng)略了西部文化風(fēng)情，欣賞了美景，品嘗了美食，放慢了腳步，輕松了心情。趁著陽光正好，趁著微風(fēng)不燥，出去走走，讓自己氧氣充盈，信心滿滿，歡喜迎接每一天的朝陽。</span></h3>

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